The Strath of Kildonan Gathering: Opening of the Helmsdale’s salmon fishing season
When the first fisher we met said he was from Texas it struck us just how special this river Helmsdale opening-day open-invitation really was. Steve Bruce, an ex-pat Scot from Houston, was on his third annual pilgrimage to fish the opening days of this beautiful highland river and he clearly loved the occasion. He joined 170 other hardy souls who gathered in the January chill beside the river, waiting for the first cast of the season to be ceremoniously performed. This year, after words of welcome from Helmsdale River Board manager Sir Michael Wigan, the honour fell to experienced local fisher George Sutherland who proudly stepped up and effortlessly cast a good line to signal the start of season and a period of free fishing.
The salmon season on the Helmsdale opens on January 11, unusually early even for Scotland, but with a traditionally good early run, January can reward the brave with fish of outstanding quality. Since the year 2000 the Helmsdale River Board has generously invited the world’s flyfishers to fish any beat on the Helmsdale for the first three days of the season without charge.
More and more fishers are taking up the offer and enjoying the warm and welcoming spirit in which it is given. Businesses benefit too, with full hotels, lively bars and busy shops when previously the shutters may have been down. Both the town and river are winning new friends and extending their reach worldwide through a simple gesture that other river boards in Scotland would be wise to follow. We stayed in the lovely and immaculately appointed Kiltearn House near Alness. Run by Lin Houlden and husband Paul, a keen flyfisher, this 4-star guest house is perfect for those travelling north to fish the highlands around Inverness and beyond. With really top class home-cooking, fine wines, a warm welcome, good company and rod storage, what more could a fisher want? And take your partner—they’ll love it too!
The Helmsdale is a stunning, dark and mysterious river that cuts deeply through rounded heather-clad red-granite hills to form the glorious Strath of Kildonan. With its lovely highland setting, famous pools and prolific runs of salmon the river is very exclusive and rod vacancies are as rare as opening day springers. The last opening day springer was caught in 1991, a feat not repeated this year, but Ronald Sutherland, owner of the bustling Helmsdale tackle shop, did report that the capture of a small bright fish in fine condition had caused much excitement. It turned out to be a ‘baggot’—a very late running 2007 salmon yet to spawn. We’ll try again next year.
With fishers travelling from far and wide to fish these opening days it is clear that their journeys are not just about catching fish. They arrive to be part of history, to soak up the almost primeval atmosphere of the strath in January, and of course for the chance to cast a fly over Helmsdale’s famous pools such as the Manse, Vale of Tears or Kildonan Falls.
There is a human factor too. Ex-pat Steve told us that he meets up with the same fishers on the river each year. He doesn’t even know where they come from, he simply enjoys the easy chat on the river bank as they share the historic moment. As we travelled up the Helmsdale valley we could see small clusters of fishers in conversation beside almost every pool. Friends old and new were glad to be back and fishing again.
by 'Durham Argus'